My first night with my “repaired” camping mat was 50% better than the last time in that I didn’t hit bottom until 5:30am. At least I didn’t need to re-inflate in the middle of the night, but clearly there was still a leak. I could live with that as long as it didn’t get worse.
I packed up earlier than most days, and waited in front of the Colter Bay grocery store for some coffee and food to take for my next stretch. It was still pretty cool this early, but by the reactions of many of the younger crowd also waiting, we might all be in Siberia. Somewhat amusing to watch them complain about the conditions and that their double espresso latte with Alpaca milk wasn’t ready when they were. Seems like Disneyland would have been a better vacation choice for them. I saw the person inside the shop give me a secret sign that she was going to unlock the door, and I quickly went inside first before the long line of specialty coffee pioneers had to wait again. I got my coffee and scoured the aisles for dense, high protein/carb choices. It didn’t take me long.
I biked out of the Colter Bay campground and rode for about 11 miles until I was out of the park. I was surprised on how many vehicles were on this road before 8am. Most of them were going north to get an early jump on Old Faithful or maybe take pictures of a squirrel on the side of the road 🤣. Hopefully they had loaded up on their latte’s beforehand. Really Harley riders, do you need to make your bikes this loud and still play loud stupid music on your speakers at the same time? No, we are not “the champions.. “ as the song might indicate.

Teton mountains
It was a beautiful morning and I did keep an eye open for wildlife off the side like moose or bear, but no luck. Linda and I have seen the most here in the winter, when there is nobody else here. The best time to come. I eventually turned on the road that headed up Togwotee pass. I took this same road the other way on my TransAm ride and remembered thinking how it must suck going the other way on that long uphill. Well, I never would have thought that would be me again 12 years later. The route did take an alternate side road that was much more scenic and quiet. Same uphill, but so much more enjoyable.

I met a couple of bike packers on the road before our route rejoined the highway again. It was Hamish and Jess from New Zealand, a father and daughter pair going south to the Mexico border as well. Hamish started in Banff, while Jess flew to Jackson to join her father. They had heavily loaded down bikes as I passed them going up to Togwotee pass.
I finally reached the top at 9,600 feet, took a few pics and headed down the long descent. The highway had a wide shoulder and little traffic, so I could really cruise down fast. The next town is Dubois, which the locals pronounce as “dough boys” 🧐. Poor Jacques Dubois, the pioneer French trapper would be turning in his grave.

Top of Togwotee pass

In 2017 on TransAm
My turn was before Dubois, and I headed up Union pass. I really didn’t plan to cross over that until the following day, so I just kept pedaling up this steep dirt road until I found suitable camping. My gps map showed an informal campsite up ahead, but when I got there there was nothing but a small creek and bridge. No larger trees anywhere near to hang my food bag. Still there were some nice flat grassy spots for a tent, so I stopped and unloaded my stuff. I figured I could use the bridge to hang my food bag off. A bear would have a tough time reaching that.


New food bag hanging technique. The bears would need to do some gymnastics to get to it.
A while later Hamish and his daughter pull up. The more the merrier.. I had eaten my dinner which was a delicious chicken salad sandwich, can of coke, and a snickers bar for desert. I have yet to open the can of Spam 😅. I decided to roll into my tent early to relax when I noticed that the air mattress I had blown up an hour earlier was already halfway flat 😫. That was not a good way to end the day..
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